Each Culinary Artist Ought to Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Top Food Spots.

When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.